December: Whimsical Dreams
Location: Turkey Tail, South Platte
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Grade: 5.11b
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If you’re looking for a true test of your trad skills and crack technique, look no further than this local Icon. Pioneered by the legendary duo of Jimmy Dunn and Brian Teale way back in 1975, years before the advent of spring-loaded cams. Jimmy had lowered in and cleaned out the dirt and mud that clogged it, then offered the sharp end to Brian, who gladly tied in. “I feel good after all these years about offering Brian the first ascent lead,” says Jimmy. “I was hoping that he would have gotten it. After his ten-foot fall from the double cracks, he lowered from his number six stopper on a sling. Then I got it first try. No one around but us.”
So, if you find your forearms flaming out on the never-ending inch and a half section between the cruxes, or your legs shaking like Elvis rounding the final roof, just imagine Jimmy hiking it on five stoppers, or Earl Wiggins floating it cordless. They were built different back then.
You’ll want good treads and 4WD in the winter months, and might still have to drive it like you stole it, but this south-facing splitter is worth the adventure. Let it warm up in the late-morning sun, but not so much that it gets greasy. You might find Abby Santurbane running laps on it this time of year, but don’t worry. She’s friendly enough to let you work in on it.
Pic 1: Abby belaying Dan Godshall
Pic 2: Steve Wood’s masterful painting, with the original little tree below the first roof (Vonloh Collection)
Pic 3: Charlie Dunn leading above the first roof
Pic 4: Early slide of Jimmy leading WD
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November:Reptile Tears
Location: South Platte, Thunder Ridge, Brown Wall
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Grade: 5.10d
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Length: 100'
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Reptile Tears is one of the best pitches you’ll find anywhere. Put up by the legendary locals– Kevin Mclaughlin, Glenn Schuler and Steve Cheyney (OMC). The trio spent the better part of a decade exploring and developing the otherworldly formations of Thunder Ridge until the Hayman fire of 2003 put a damper on the party.
This is the perfect trad-line for those crisp, early winter days. It comes into the sun for most of the day, allowing for t-shirt climbing as long as the wind and clouds cooperate. You’ll find incredible gator skin panels that eat gear, that is if you can find the right size cam or stopper before the pump clock expires! Shoot past the lower anchor and link with the upper headwall for the full experience. Kevin and Glenn were nice enough to add a couple bolts on the upper spice to keep it mild, though not before sandbagging a few of us young climbers first.
Please respect private property and stay on the approach trail to the west (left) of the dirt road.
Enjoy! And please tag the PPCA with your great pics of this uberclassic!
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October: Total Abandon
Location: Pikes Peak, Corinthian Column
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Grade: WI4/M5
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Length: 400'
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On a good year, the north face of Pikes Peak hosts some of the earliest forming ice climbs in the lower 48. Perched at almost fourteen thousand feet and tucked into the shadows of the beastly Corinthian Column, are two classics. Our route of the month is Total Abandon, which clocks in at an attainable grade of WI4/M5. But don’t let those numbers fool you, it’s still alpine. Some years you’ll find cruiser conditions and hero ice that takes as many screws you can carry. However, on the lean years you’re more likely to have to climb above gear and punch it on verglas. Either way, you’ll find a different adventure every time.
You can find beta for the route on Mountain Project, or hit up a Springs local for an inside scoop on conditions. As always, follow your nose and don’t get yourself into anything you can’t find a way out of. Check your knots, and be kind to other climbers. Call the Pikes Peak Highway ahead of time for road conditions and hours of operation. Don’t miss the gate!
Please tag us with your pics of this route so we can share!
Pic 1- A young Noah Mckelvin leading pitch two, October 2012 (E. Wellborn)
Pic 2- Joe Kalis eating up pitch 1 on July 6, 2023 (Wortmann)
Pic 3- Will Quillman following pitch 2 in lean and mean conditions (Wortmann)
Pic 4- TA in FAT conditions, July 2023
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