Colorado Springs
Learn about climbing at Garden of the Gods & Red Rocks Open Space with Jes Meiris.
About
Inside Colorado Springs, great climbing can be had just minutes from downtown. Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, North Cheyenne Canyon, and Ute Valley Park all provide great, nearby options.
Special Rules
All climbers must obtain a free rock climbing permit from the City of Colorado Springs, HERE. Current rules regarding chalk use, where to climb, and seasonal closures can be found when obtaining the permit. Seasonal closures happen every year, especially at Garden of the Gods.
Types of Climbing
Red Rock Canyon: Sandstone sport climbing, slab. Lots of routes in the 5.7-5.10 range.
Garden of the Gods: Sandstone Sport, Trad, and Bouldering. Some routes can be very run out. Rock quality and protection can vary.
North Cheyenne Canyon: Primarily granite sport climbing with some trad and bouldering of all abilities.
Ute Valley: Easy to access bouldering with a short approach
PPCA cleans up chalk at Garden of The Gods
PPCA cleans up chalk at Garden of The Gods
Work we've done
Any bolt additions and replacements must go through an approval process with the City of Colorado Springs. PPCA has lead this effort in working with the city and the local community to ensure safety while maintaining local ethics.​
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Numerous trail work projects, most recently, the Hully Gully trail, has been cleaned up and improved. Bolts have been replaced on numerous routes in Red Rock, the Garden, and North Cheyenne Canyon. Please report any damaged/loose bolts on the Bad Bolts page.
Guidebooks
"Garden of the Gods Rock Climbing Guide" by Stewart M. Green
"Climbing Red Rock Canyon Open Space" by Stewart Green
"Bouldering Ute Valley: Best Bouldering Colorado Springs" by Stewart M. Green and Brian Shelton
"A Rock Climbing Pamphlet to Cheyenne Canyon" by Bob and Carrie Robinson
Shelf Road
Tony Yao teaches the ethics for one of the most popular climbing areas in Colorado.
About
Work we've done
-Replaced hundreds of bolts and hardware on routes
-Worked with the Bureau of Land Management(BLM) and other organizations on management plans and climber representation
-Fundraised for pit toilet at Shelf Road
Shelf Road is known for its year round sport climbing, bringing in people from all over the state, and further. The area has grown in popularity, and rightfully so.
Special Rules
The climbing is on BLM Land with two campgrounds minutes from some of the walls(Check availability HERE). University Wall, that was on private land, is no longer accessible due to indiscretions between previous owners and climbers. Follow any posted signage and rules to ensure future access to climbing in this area.
Types of Climbing
Shelf road is a sport climbing destination. With hundreds of single pitch routes across its limestone cliffs, it offers grades for all abilities, with a high concentration of routes in the 5.10-5.12 range.
Guidebooks
"Shelf Road Rock, 3rd Edition" by Rick Thompson
South Platte
Larissa Phillips explains South Platte etiquette. This will ensure the area will remain open and accessible to all.
About
The South Platte makes up a huge area that stretches from Woodland Park all the way to Staunton State Park. It features dozens of crags with everything from granite splitter cracks to technical slabs. The crags closest to the Pikes Peak region include Turkey Rocks, Thunder Ridge, Sheep's Nose, and Elevenmile Canyon. Most of these crags lie in Pikes National Forest.
Special Rules
Although most of the climbing is on National Forest land, there is private land nearby. To the South of Turkey Rocks is a private neighborhood, and the trail to Thunder Ridge avoids private land near by. Check out the Interactive Map or one of the guidebooks below for more details.
Types of Climbing
Granite makes up the majority of these crags. Trad, Sport, Single Pitch, Multipitch, and Top Rope accessible climbs can be found throughout, having something to offer for anyone.
Work we've done
-Wag Bag location at Turkey Rocks
-Hundreds(and counting) of pieces of replaced hardware on routes such as Sidewinder, Hang Ten, Johnny Lat, and more.
-Trail improvement and cleanup projects
-Work with Pikes National Forest to ensure sustainable access.
Guidebooks
"South Platte Climbing | The Northern Volume" by Jason Haas, Ben Schneider & Craig Weinhold
"South Platte Climbing | The Thunder Ridge and Turkey Rock Edition" by Jason Haas
"Devil's Head Climbing, 2nd Edition(2022)" by Tod Anderson